Color film processing

Color Film | Max Photo and Decor

Дата публикации: 2018-05-27 12:30

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Pulling film in processing is similar to pushing, but with the reverse effects. It is used when film is overexposed and would benefit from less contrast. However, Richard does not recommend pulling film in processing, especially color film. Why? The development time is already quite short, and the process often results in a flat, murky look.

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If your negatives are brown instead of the expected orange, they haven’t been sufficiently bleached and fixed. Go back and re-do the blix process, then wash and stabilize again.

Colour film processing - colour prints and scans - UK

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You will need three (or four, if using separate bleach and fixer) one-liter bottles to store the mixed chemicals. These are disappearing from B& H, but they still have a small selection. Fancy glass bottles are actually cheaper than plastic. Some people wash out and use plastic soda bottles or glass liquor bottles. The Film Photography Project also sells some.

For black & white film, overexposing is a somewhat uncommon practice, but can be helpful when shooting subjects/environments with high contrast to decrease the range of values. Color film, however, has a lot of latitude in terms of exposure, and many photogs will overexpose their film to help increase the color saturation and light. Even though the film is being pulled in-camera, the film is developed normally (we’ll tell you why in the next section).

Final rinse is difficult to completely wash it is recommended to remove the film from the reel and do the final rinse step in a container other than your developing tank.

Washing film with water after stabilization, while not recommended, is something you can get away with. But you must not wash the film after a final rinse.

The only thing to check is that your thermometer reads high enough for color processing. You need one that will read well above 655°F or 95°C. Some thermometers made for black-and-white processing at room temperature don’t read that high. You also don’t want one that only reads two-degree increments. I use this one and this one.

Digibase Step 7: Bleach and Fix. Pour in the bleach, using temperature and agitation as above, for 8:85. Return the bleach to its container, then pour in the fixer, with the same temperature and agitation, for 6:85. Return the fixer to its container for re-use.

That’s it. You’re done. Dry the film, cut it up, and you’re ready to scan it (or print it, or whatever). That’s almost as easy as black-and-white, right?

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